Tyson´s Travels

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Coorg Country – The Fawlty Towers of India

>Ribbons of narrow asphalt circle up and around hills to the capital of
the Coorg region. These raised ribbons usually with a jagged foot high
drop to the shoulder on either side are just wide enough for one bus
and oncoming traffic (even motorbikes) often need to back up or pull
off. Maderkerei the capital is a sleepy town with very few foreigners.
The hotel's staff in an effort to make Westerners comfortable
frequently knock on doors asking if tea or coffee is needed. Often
they start at 6am. If you forget to lock the door they don't even
bother to knock.

The largest hotel in town has a gay social coordinator who sets up
guests and offers to teach Bollywood dancing. This is how I met Jenny
who I spent the next day hiking with. Hiring a guide was difficult as
all the stores offering guide service were never staffed with anyone
who knew anything and they all lacked any form of literature in any
language. They would call someone on the phone and over the next 30
minutes various people with more and more knowledge would show up and
tell you exactly what the last guy did with slightly additional
details. It did not inspire confidence. I ended up picking a guide who
introduced himself at an internet cafe.

Madikeri is magical. Roasting coffee smells fill the air and the
streets are filled with strange stores with dual functions such as
"Spices and Fancy Footware". Restaurants were also very good including
the hotel restaurant with the drunk chef who checked up on us every
few minutes and apologized profusely for the slightest thing wrong.
When not apologizing he eagerly tried to feed me small caramels even
going as far as unwrapping them for immediate consumption while I
tried to consume dinner. My new German friend refused to return to
this restaurant for the next meal.

The next day we hiked with our guide through coffee plantations
swarming with dragonflies to a lofty peak.

I was sad to leave this strange but beautiful part of India.


Tyson Brooks

In India –


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This entry was posted on November 6, 2010 by in India.

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